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The weave has been the butt of many jokes, largely due to poor weaves giving them a bad name. However today, a professional weave is a serious fashion option for women who want to give their hair a rest, or who want something different.
There are various types of weaves, but most fall into one of two categories - cornrow based or bonded.
Many women choose either a basic or micro weave, which is done by sewing new hair (human or synthetic) onto a cornrow, or in the case of the microweave (tiny cornrows), closure can be added into a regular cornrow weave, to give the impression of a natural parting in the hair.
Bonded weaves are either hot or cold sealed onto natural hair. At the Montaz salon in London, they use a hot gun to bond the weave. According to salon owner Derek Clark, this leaves the hair looking more natural.
Styles
If you’ve decided to have a weave, the first thing you need to do is to have a consultation with a stylist that you trust, or someone who comes highly recommended.
Ask to see some pictures of weaves the stylist has already done, or better still, try and find out if anyone you know has had a weave done by that stylist.
Weaves don’t come cheap, so you need to get it right if you're going to do it at all. A competent stylist will explain the different types of weaves available to you and discuss which is the most appropriate. They may also want to know why you want a weave. For example, is it to give your hair a rest, to cover up damage, or simply because you want a longer hairstyle? You may even want to blend your own hair with the weave. If you have a damaged hair line you'll probably be advised to go for a style with a fringe.
Daily Maintenance
It's best to ask your stylist how to care for your hair once it's been weaved. The type of hair and weave will determine your haircare routine.
For example, with bonded weaves you have to avoid oils coming into contact with the bond, as it can cause the hair to fall out. If human hair has been used, light oils are usually best.
Kera Care's Dry & Itchy range is recommended by some stylists - Glossifier (£5), Shampoo (£4.95) and Conditioner (£5.95). While other ones to look out for include: ArtEffex Weave & Braid Shampoo (£5.40), Shimmer & Shine Gloss Spray (£5.60) and Shine & Define Gel (£6.56), Soft N’ Silky Hair Lotion (£2.99/8oz) and Wonder Weave by African Pride (£1.99).
Doreen Domfeh from Doreen Hair Fashions uses Prestige Weave Finishing Lotion (£5). Call: 020 7272 4105 for stockists. Also look out for products which carry the 'weave and braid' label.
At night, putting hair into a pony tail will help to keep it neat, as well as making it easier to style. Weaved hair shouldn’t be treated any different from natural hair, and should be combed and brushed regularly to avoid tangling.
Stylists have found that customers often neglect to comb their hair at all, which not only leaves it looking untidy, but also makes it harder to style.
When combing a weave, Michelle McIntosh from Utopia Hair Design suggests, ‘Use a large tooth comb and comb hair from the middle through to the ends first, then from the roots through to the middle. This puts less pressure on the hair and keeps it free from tangles.’
Curly weaves however, should only be finger combed, otherwise it may end up looking too frizzy. Derek of Montaz recommends using the Montaz Micro-Weave Brush (£4.99) for regular care. Call: 020 7610 0245 for stockists. While Tai Arogundade from Xtension Masters recommends using a combination of mousse and oil serum - the mousse to hold the curls and the serum for shine and definition without grease.
For straight styles she suggests blow-drying the hair in the morning, which helps bring life back into the hair, as well as getting rid of any kinks.
All the stylists interviewed by BBH believe that for a professional look, clients are best having their hair washed and conditioned at a salon. This ensures the hair is kept in optimum condition and that the natural hair is dried properly after washing.
Hair should be washed at least every two weeks. If you decide to wash your hair at home, you should follow the natural direction of the hair as you wash. When drying your hair, make sure that your own hair is thoroughly dried.
To keep your weave fresh, try The Body Shop’s Fresh Hair Fragranced Hair Freshener (£3.95/100ml), or you can push the boat out and use Hugo Boss’s new Urban Essentials Hair Fragrance (£16). Available from all major department stores.
Life Span
Weaves should not be kept in for any longer than three months. Once the weave has been removed, your natural hair will need a moisturising and conditioning salon treatment. Don't make the mistake of thinking you can recycle the weave and use it again. Once you start using weaves, be prepared to replace the hair every three months.
Weaves cost from £100 for the first fitting and styling. However, they aren't necessarily a high cost option. If you work out how much you might spend on having your hair relaxed and re-touched every eight weeks, then a weave may actually cost the same as having a chemical treatment, which is regularly conditioned at a salon.
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